这 几 家 的 均 码 就 对 了

The One Size Fits All Clothing Brands You'll Love

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

均码尺寸已经备受诟病很久了，最甚者就是快销零售商Brandy Melville。 如果您对Brandy Melville不熟悉，那就请认真阅读下文！ 为了迎合青少年和年轻女性的需求，Brandy Melville很早就一直在推广均码，而网红和博主们从一开始就在博客和vlog上大力宣传它们。 但是，均码适合所有品牌所有服装的设计吗？ 显然不是！

One size fits all clothing brands have been under fire for a long time now, no more so than fast-fashion retailer Brandy Melville. If you're not familiar with Brandy Melville, you're about to get an education! Catering for teens and young women, Brandy Melville have long since been promoting their one size fits all sizing strategy but influencers the internet over have been blasting them on blog and vlog try ons, pretty much since the beginning. But are all one size fits all clothing brands created equally? It turns out they aren't!

The Brandy Melville Saga

Brandy Melville的故事

The problem with Brandy Melville runs deeps in today's inclusive society. Any brand that claims to sell one size fits all garments, needs to really live up to that and most agree that Brandy Melville simply doesn't. It's not even a case of one size fits most which could be forgivable, but in this case, it's more like they offer one size and that size is small! According to their website, their measurements are based on a waist size of 24 inches and the one size fits all works across sweaters, dresses, tops, pants and everything else they carry. Even on the surface, this sounds like a terrible idea, sure clothes made from stretchy fabric or knit can have more leeway than non stretch fabrics but when you start creating garments with zip and button closures, you're just asking for trouble! Not to mention the fact that even the stretchiest garment, is still going to look and fit very differen t on different sized bodies. Most notably, tops from Brandy Melville that claim to be crop tops end up looking droopy and long on petite frames while those who take bigger sizes find them to fit more like sports bras.

Brandy Melville的问题来源于当今社会的包容性。任何声称出售均码的品牌都需要切实做到这一点，并且大多数人都觉得Brandy Melville根本不行。就算均码没有问题，他家的问题则是这个均码尺寸太小！根据他们的网站，他们的测量基于24英寸(大约1尺8)的腰围尺寸，并且该尺寸用于毛衣、连衣裙、上衣、裤子和其他所有产品。这种做法当然行不通，可以肯定的是，用弹力织物或针织物制成的衣服比非弹力织物具有更大的伸展度，如果有拉链和纽扣的服装，问题更大！更不用说即使是最有弹力的衣服，不同身材的穿后效果和合身性也会有很大的不同。最值得注意的是，Brandy Melville家的露腹短上衣，身材小的穿，会垂下来而且很长，而那些身材较大的人穿上则更像运动文胸。

这就是相同的Brandy Melville背心在六种不同身材上的样子-很明显，不同女性穿的效果都大不相同，甚至可能会混淆为不同的上衣。 一位女士胸围太大，根本穿不上。

这就是相同的Brandy Melville背心在六种不同身材上的样子-很明显，不同女性穿的效果都大不相同，甚至可能会混淆为不同的上衣。 一位女士胸围太大，根本穿不上。

Here's how the same Brandy Melville tank top looks on six different body types – it's clear to say the top fits so drastically different on each woman, it could even be confused as a different top. One woman couldn't even fit the top over her bust.

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

总而言之，即使非常苗条的女性如果穿上发现太紧也会心烦，但该品牌备受诟病的主要原因是因为影响了女性自尊心和身体形象。 许多退回衣服的顾客只是觉得不合身，当被销售助理问及为何要退货时内心会受伤。 这不仅会让打击年轻女性的玻璃心而且会怀疑自己发胖，而且年轻女性的尺寸不应与12岁青少年的尺寸相同，从技术上讲也是不正确的。 此外，网购者会看到尺码标签上唯一的参考值，注明“适合小尺码”。这就引发了更多人吐槽Brandy Melville，如果仅仅适合小尺码，那怎么可能是适合所有人的均码。

Overall, while it's super annoying if even very svelte women are finding their clothes too snug, the main reason the brand has been blasted is due to the effects on women's self esteem and body image. Many customers returning clothes are doing so simply because they didn't fit and end up feeling mortified when the sales assistant asks why they are returning. Not only does this make impressionable young women feel inadequate and fat shamed but it's also not technically correct considering a young women's body measurements should not be the same as a 12 year old teen's. Furthermore, online shoppers will see that the only fit reference available where the size label should be, states “Fits Size Small.” This has only propelled campaigners more to sham Brandy Melville since if it fits size small, that's not one size fits all in any way.

哪家做的好

Here's Who's Doing It Right

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

但是，有些时尚品牌使用均码（屡见不鲜！）策略，但做法方式正确！ 首先是巴黎设计师Nina Kendosa，她非常仔细地考量了出售的服装和面料的类型。如果您正在寻找像手套一样全身贴合穿着，那么这里肯定找不到。这种面料无法做出均码的服装，因此Nina Kendosa专注于哪种服装可以用均码适合所有尺寸。 他们家大部分衣服都是稍大的针织衫、男友毛衣、宽松连衣裙和打底裤。 原汁原味的巴黎风情是该品牌的核心，您可以毫不费力地穿上这样的衣服，全天舒适，但又不会显得马虎。

But, there are fashion brands who use a one size fits all (read most!) strategy but are doing it the right way! First up is Parisian designer Nina Kendosa, who very carefully considers the type of garments and fabrics she sells. If you're looking for figure hugging, fits like a glove clothing, you'll not find it here. It's impossible to create those kind of garments with a one size fits all label so instead Nina Kendosa focuses on what kind of clothes can work in a one size fits all way. Most pieces they carry are slightly oversized knitwear, boyfriend sweaters, tunic style dresses and leggings made to look like pants. Authentic, Parisian elegance is at the core of the brand, the kind of clothes you can slip on effortlessly, be comfortable in all day and yet not look sloppy.

我们知道您会爱上Nina Kendosa的，是因为这些均码款式都非常完美，适合所有人，不会太紧身，因此它们在很多身材上看起来都宽松。我喜欢他们的中长裙和超大号百褶裙，搭配超大号毛衣，这是春秋季的理想之选，可以让您从办公室到日托，从午餐到约会之夜，都无需换装。

We know you'll love Nina Kendosa because these style of garments lend themselves perfectly to one size fits all, no garment is intended to be fitted and therefore they look the perfect amount of oversized on many body types. Right now, we're loving their midi and maxi pleated skirts worn with an oversized sweater, the perfect outfit for Fall that can take you from the office to daycare, and from lunch to date night without changing.

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

看来法国人真是掀起了均码服装风潮。 另一个成功运用了不同策略的品牌是Jean Tonique，取名为One Size（一个尺寸）。 他们决定出售均码牛仔裤，令人惊讶，因为即使是用标准尺码，牛仔裤也是最难做到合身的服装之一。 “One Size”可能用是法国保密做的最好的，现在我们把这个方法与您分享！该过程很简单，选择牛仔裤款式：高腰，双倍提臀、双倍舒适，提臀或基础款，然后选择颜色再水洗。当然，它们不像Brandy Melville那样傻，没有选纸板一样，没有弹力的标准牛仔裤。所有One Size牛仔裤都使用高强度弹力面料，并且只有腿部有修身，这样就会更加坚固耐穿，并配有口袋，铆钉和牛仔裤缝边，给人一种牛仔裤的错觉，但确实非常合身。

It seems the French are really making waves in one size fits all clothing. Another fabulous brand adopting a different strategy is the aptly named One Size by Jean Tonique. They have decided to tackle jeans in a one size fits all way which is surprising since jeans are one of the hardest garments to fit even with standard sizing labels. One Size might just be France's best kept secret and now we're sharing it with you! The process is simple, choose your jeans cut, High, Double Up, Double Comfort, Up or Original and then choose your color or wash. Of course, they haven't been foolish like Brandy Melville, these aren't your standard non stretch jeans that feel like cardboard. All of One Size jeans include high intensity stretch fabric and feature only slim cut legs making them more of a sturdy jegging complete with pockets, rivets and jean stitching to give the illusion of jeans but with perfect fit.

那为啥还要选均码

Why Choose One Size Fits All Anyway?

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

觉得均码值得只会更麻烦吗？ 您不是唯一一个有这种感觉的人，这很正常！但是，均码让你去进入精品店选购时，不必再去试衣间，网上购物也非常容易，知道上身效果会和卖秀一样，无需退货。 适合所有商店的均码可能并不符合每个人的口味，但是一旦您找到了做得很好的精品店，您可能会盯着他家买！

Starting to feel like one size fits all is more hassle than it's worth? You're not the only one and we don't blame you! But, there is something so effortless and easy about nipping into a boutique and not having to use the fitting rooms or shopping online and knowing that provided the quality looks like the product shots, you won't need to return it. Shopping at one size fits all stores might not be to everyone's taste but once you find the boutiques that are doing a great job at it, you might never look back!

上海大学巴黎国际时装艺术学院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立于2003年，被外界誉为”上海时装界的黄埔军校“，是国内第一个在上海创办的中法合作时装设计学院，国内率先引进法国奢侈品营销与管理专业和时尚传播专业。受到中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会、中国国际贸易促进会纺织行业分会等专业社会团体的支持。